Customised 925 Silver – Kundan, Polki & Jadau Jewellery

Two Crafts, One Standard of Excellence

At Josya, your custom jewellery is created through one of two specialised production routes, each chosen to suit the design and stones involved.

The Authentic Kundan & Polki Karigari Process

Kundan and Polki jewellery making is a highly skilled, labour-intensive craft that originated in the royal courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat. At Josya, the same six sequential stages are followed by our karigars, adapted onto a 925 sterling silver base. Each piece passes through specialist hands, with no shortcuts — this is what gives authentic Jadau jewellery its depth and character.

1. Hand Drawing & Design (Naqsha)

Every commission begins with a hand-drawn design (naqsha) by our karigars, mapping the layout, stone placement, and proportions of the piece before any metal is touched. This is where your vision, outfit, and measurements are translated into a working blueprint.

2. Ghaat (The Skeletal Framework)

The base structure is formed by cutting, coiling, and shaping silver strips into hollow molds and compartments that define the overall design. This skeletal Ghaat dictates the silhouette and the cavities into which every stone will eventually be set.

3. Lac Filling (Bharai)

To stabilise the hollow, malleable framework, it is filled with lac — natural shellac or plant resin. The lac hardens to provide a solid, supportive base so the metal does not deform during the heavy gemstone-setting process that follows.

4. Khudayi & Paadh (Engraving and Waxing)

Artisans engrave detailed patterns into the outer metal surface (Khudayi). Heated wax is then poured and molded precisely to the contours of the stones, preparing each cavity to receive its gemstone with perfect fit.

5. Jadai — Kundan Setting (Foil & Stone Placement)

This is the heart of the craft. Fine foils are gently pressed into the setting cavities, and the Polki (uncut, rose-cut stones) or coloured gemstones are placed onto the foil. Through the Jadai (setting) process, the piece is worked and heated so the foil expands and molds securely around each stone’s edges, and additional ribbon is added to permanently lock the gems in place.

6. Meenakari (Enamelling)

Most traditional Jadau pieces undergo Meenakari, where the reverse and exposed edges are filled with coloured glass enamels and fired in a furnace. The powders fuse into a glass-like finish, adding the signature colour and depth seen on the back of fine Kundan jewellery. Meenakari is applied per design, as the piece requires.

7. Chillai (Polishing & Finishing)

Finally, the lac is melted and washed from the interior, and the piece undergoes meticulous Chillai polishing to bring the stones to maximum brilliance and the metal to a high shine. Structural finishing — stringing of pearls, beads, or drops — completes the article, ready to wear.

Why 925 Silver Is the Smart Alternative to Gold

With gold prices at record highs, commissioning a full bridal set in real gold has become out of reach for many families. Customised 925 sterling silver offers a refined alternative — you get the same designs, the same craftsmanship, and the same regal presence at a fraction of the cost, freeing your budget for the rest of your celebration without compromising on how you look.

What truly sets Josya apart is our karigars. Our pieces are made by master gold karigars — the same craftsmen who hand-build fine gold Kundan and Polki jewellery. When that level of skill is applied to a 925 silver base with gold, rose gold, or rhodium plating, the result is a finish that is virtually indistinguishable from real gold jewellery. The weight, the detailing, the Jadai stone-setting, and the Meenakari are all executed to the exact standard you would expect from a gold piece.

The advantages add up: 925 sterling silver is durable and hallmarked, gentle and hypoallergenic on the skin, and far more practical for travel and daily occasion wear than expensive gold. You can own several statement sets for the price of one gold set — and customise each to a different outfit. For the modern bride and her family, it is luxury that makes sense.

Inside the Josya Workshop

A closer look at our karigars at work — from the first hand-drawn naqsha to the final Chillai polish.

Diamond, CVD, AD & CZ Jewellery — The CAD to Casting Process

For diamond, lab-grown CVD diamond, American Diamond (AD), and Cubic Zirconia (CZ) jewellery, Josya uses a precise modern manufacturing route that delivers consistency, symmetry, and a flawless finish. Each design moves through the following specialised stages.

1. CAD (Computer-Aided Design)

Your design is modelled in 3D using CAD software, allowing exact control over dimensions, stone sizes, and proportions before production begins. You can review and refine the model until it is perfect.

2. CAM & Wax Modelling

The approved CAD model is produced as a physical wax or resin prototype through CAM milling or 3D printing, giving an accurate preview of the final article and forming the master for casting.

3. Casting

Using the lost-wax casting method, the wax model is invested and cast in 925 sterling silver, producing a precise metal version of the design ready for finishing and stone setting.

4. Filing, Stone Setting & Finishing

The cast piece is filed and pre-polished, after which diamonds, CVD, AD, or CZ stones are set by hand with precision. Every setting is checked for security and alignment.

5. Plating & Final Polish

The finished article is plated as required — rhodium for a bright white finish, gold or rose gold for warmth — and given a final polish for lasting shine and durability.

Made to Your Measurements

A custom piece should fit perfectly. For the best outcome, we take the precise length and width of every article — earrings, maangtika, necklace, choker, and more — so each sits correctly and proportionately for the wearer. Whether you want a choker at a specific height on the neck, a maangtika sized to your hairline, or earrings balanced to your face, our karigars work to your exact dimensions. This attention to measurement is what separates a truly bespoke piece from a standard design.

What You Can Customise

Customisation Timelines

Because each piece is handcrafted, timelines depend on the complexity of the work. A minor bead or stone change can be completed within a day, a complete bead or piroi style change takes two to three days, and a fully custom design crafted from scratch takes fifteen to twenty-five days. We recommend beginning your bridal commission well in advance of your event to allow time for design, approval, and finishing.

Custom Jewellery — FAQs